Cypriot Wine Review
Wednesday, September 1st, 2010If you’re visiting Cyprus on holiday soon, the Cyprus Mail have published a good review of which local wines to look out for when you’re dining out - or want to bring a bottle or two home (to read the article click here):
After setting up a confectionary business and a restaurant, Theodoros Fikardos was inspired to move into the wine business by his wife Ellie’s vineyards.
He does not have the advantage of family inheritance or government assistance. When he tours the winery with visitors Theo always mentions how he worked up a design, bought huge sheets of stainless steel, hired a welder and built his first fermentation tanks, which are still in use at the winery.
Based in Mesogi village since 1988, Fikardos winery has been at the forefront of the rise in popularity of the independent wineries that has taken place over the last 25 years.
For Fikardos winery his goal is simple: to craft better and better wines each year. He is a winemaker who likes to experiment and was one of the first to blend Xynisteri with an imported variety, in this case Semillon. He was also one of the first to use Mataro or Cabernet Sauvignon red grape varieties for rosé and he started experimenting with oak barrels and Chardonnay grapes years ago, not to mention his Riesling and the indigenous Spourtiko varietal exploits.
The future looks bright for this ebullient winemaker. His dream is to produce appellation of origin wines. A firm believer in quality control in the vineyards, first he purchased vineyards within an appellation zone and secondly land to build a new winery near Drousia in the Akamas, where he can benefit from the Akamas Laona Protected Designation of Origin zone.
2009 Fikardos Xilogefiro Chardonnay Fumé, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Regions, abv 12%
This is a finely grained, young and vibrant wine, definitely one of my favourite white wines for summer. Greeny-yellow colour, the aromas are still unfolding yet it has an appealing minerality. Citrusy nose, lime and grapefruit in particular, followed by green apple and white peach with a twist of melon. Medium bodied and dry, the palate has a light creamy, buttery texture and impressive length. It is fruit driven in the mouth with white peach, citrus to the fore with a subtle backdrop of oak. Seafood, chicken or pork dishes with cream, you have your match. Try it as well with citrus-based salads, smoked salmon or stuffed clams, crab cakes and mild cheddar too. €9.20
2009 Fikardos Iocasti, Mourvèdre, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Region, abv 13%
Made from Mataro from around Kallepia village. Cyprus is building up a wonderful tradition of rosés that are refreshing for a picnic or at the beach and marry extremely well with food. Pink colour, sweet fruit smell with good juicy strawberry and raspberry aromas. There is good weight in the mouth, racy acidity; tannins are soft, under the flavours section there is strawberry and apple skin as well as pomegranate. The finish is crisp, dry and balanced. An easy drinking wine, excellent with chicken dishes and stuffed vegetables, antipasto and barbecues. €4.90
2008 Fikardos Shiraz, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Region, abv14%
Shiraz is a variety that suits the Cyprus weather. This 2008 vintage red is still young and developing, dense purple colour, the nose displays notes of blackberry, cherry, nutmeg and intense spice and vanilla scents, a result of 16 months in French oak barrels. The wine is voluptuous and yet seamlessly elegant. Supple tannins complement richness and viscosity. Enjoy this wine with roast leg of lamb with lots of fresh herbs with a spicy-sweet sauce, with barbecue dishes or pasta arrabiata. €7.50
2008 Fikardos Maratheftiko, Fikardos Winery, Pafos Regions, abv 13.5%
New French oak barrels host this wine for 16 months. It displays a deep purple hue and has great clarity. The bouquet offers scents or ripe, well-defined blackcurrant, sour cherries, blackberry and blueberry. Add to that some herbs, spice and smoke. Flavours include notes of dark cherry and ripe plum with a hint of vanilla, some smoke and cocoa dust. Sturdy and firm but approachable. Try with grilled beef burgers or simple grilled lamb chops, grilled fillet mignon, pork belly marinated in red wine and sprinkled with coriander and hard cheese. €10.35
Fikardos Winery, Tel: 26 949814
Kyperounda
Enjoying Kyperounda wines in restaurants is one thing but tasting them at the winery is a sheer joy. The winery is situated in Kyperounda village in the Pitsilia region. At an altitude of 1,400m, it prides itself as sitting at a higher point than any other winery in Europe. Set up in the late 1990s, by 2000 Photos Photiades Distributors joined as a major shareholder, only to be quickly followed by the famous Greek winemaker Boutaris.
The vineyards are located at 1,400m too, again the highest in Europe. Those owned by the winery are planted with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Xinisteri. There is Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as a small vineyard of Merlot. Still, the demands of the winery force it to also buy from local producers, as well as from vine growers in Kilani, and as far as the Paphos region.
On a recent visit we also tasted a promising sparkling wine made from Xinisteri using the Champagne method; it only lacked for my taste a touch of sweetness and a bit more vibrancy. Fine bubbles, light and gentle with apple flavours, it is only available at the winery.
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Kyperounda Winery, Lemesos Region, abv 14%
The 2007 is an opaque red with purple rim colour, full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. The varietal aromas of ripe black cherry on the nose etched with mint sets the tone for enjoyment. The nose and palate is also dominated with blackcurrant and a smidgen of mint and sage invades the medley of black fruits that dominate the palate. Dry, rich and complex while the length is just as impressive with an inky twist on the finish. Serve with steak and kidney pie, T-bone steaks, roast lamb shanks and hard cheeses. €9.80